Napali Trail Description 2

The ocean approach offers a broad perspective of sheer coastal palis and waterfalls cascading into the sea--a view that has awed visitors since a British fur trader named George Dixon first sailed along this coast in the late 1780s. The valleys of the Na Pali Coast, with their early agricultural terraces, still seem part of Old Hawaii.

Getting Away From It All

During the flowerpower 1960s, young people drifted into the Eden of Kalalau Valley to mellow out and live on nature's bounty, such as the orange, papaya, and banana trees growing there.
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They weren't the first people to seek escape from the outside world: In 1893 a young Hawaiian named Koolau, who had contracted leprosy, hid here with his wife and small son, rather than be forced to leave them and live at the leper colony on Molokai. Neither sheriff nor soldiers could dislodge him from the valley--even with a cannon. The hippie residents of later years were evicted in 1974, when the area was established as a wilderness park.

What to See and Do
Suitable for fit hikers, the Kalalau Trail (which follows much of the same route trod by early Hawaiians) runs 11 miles, from Haena State Park to Kalalau Beach.

It cuts above towering sea cliffs and winds through green valleys, dropping now and then to beaches. (The trail can be precipitous, muddy, and rutted; in some spots along high cliffs it narrows to barely more than a foot wide. Be aware of the dangers of crossing rain-swollen streams and of swimming in the surf.)

Day hikers can experience a bit of the Kalalau Trail, including fine views of the coast, on the 2-mile section from Kee Beach at Haena State Park to Hanakapai Beach.

At Hanakapai Beach, a maintained but sometimes rough side trail leads 2 miles up the Hanakapai Valley, which receives 75 inches of rain a year--more than anywhere else along the Na Pali Coast. The water creates a paradisiacal forest of guava and kukui, with an understory of ferns and grasses. On the up-valley trail you pass bamboo, wild ginger, and mango trees, as well as old irrigation terraces where early Hawaiians grew taro, which they made into the starchy, pasty dish called poi. You also see traces of a coffee mill from the late 1800s. At the top is a waterfall about 150 feet high, with a pool for swimming--but not directly below the falls, since rocks and debris may be washed over. (Hike the upper part of this trail only in good weather, as there is danger from flash floods and falling rocks.)

If you choose to continue along the Kalalau Trail (hiking permit required beyond this point), the hike becomes more strenuous in its next 4 miles, with steep switchbacks and two hanging valleys to cross. Climbing away from the sea, it reaches Hanakoa, a valley with agricultural terraces, where coffee plants now grow wild. Cool off in the pools of Hanakoa Stream, or hike a third of a mile up the east fork of the valley to Hanakoa Falls. (Beware of eroded trail sections and treacherous footing.)

Around the 7-mile point, the Kalalau Trail returns to the coast, crossing some dry terrain, formerly cattle country, where sisal and lantana grow. Ahead you see the ridges of Na Pali plunging toward the sea, then the Kalalau Valley appears, spreading 2 miles wide between fluted walls. Look for the sites of ancient houses and a heiau (temple) on the plateau above the shore. A lacework of creeks feeds into Kalalau Stream; you can take a 2-mile side trip up the valley to a natural water slide and pools at Big Pond. On the way you pass terraces covered with guava, Java plum, and mango trees. You'll spy goats around the cliffs.

The Kalalau Trail continues to Kalalau Beach, a 600-yard stretch of sand that extends to the small Kolea waterfall. In early days the Hawaiian residents of the Kalalau Valley moved down to the beach in summer, living in sea caves and fishing from canoes. Today, commercial boats (contact Maui Visitors Bureau 800-245-3971) drop off travelers at this beach and campers stay in the sea caves in summer. Beware of falling rocks around cliff faces.

Further Adventures
Farther along the coast is Nualolo Kai, a coastal flat accessible only by commercial boat; it is isolated by cliffs nearly 2,000 feet high. More than six centuries ago, Hawaiians lived here, no doubt drawn by the coral reef where they caught rudderfish, tangs, parrotfish, and other sea creatures for food; now the reef draws snorkelers. In the 1820s missionaries would stop here to rest as they canoed along the coast. And the cliff above Nualolo Kai was a prime spot for oahi--a display of early fireworks, created by throwing burning sticks off the cliff. It's said that in the mid-1800s King Kamehameha III stayed overnight at Nualolo just to see this spectacular light show. Today an interpretive trail guides you to early Hawaiian sites on the flat: mounds where sweet potatoes were grown, stone walls, house platforms, and an impressive heiau, where people made offerings to help assure a successful growing season.

Still farther along the coast lies Milolii, another coastal flat. Boats bring you through a fringed reef to a white-sand beach. About three-quarters of a mile up the Milolii Valley Trail, a waterfall tumbles, and you'll see old house sites and farming terraces.

Camping
The park has primitive camping areas (year-round) at Hanakapiai, Hanakoa, and Kalalau; and at Milolii (mid-May-Labor Day). Permit required; available from park office in Lihue. Reservations advised in season; call 808-274-3444. Only 60 campers total allowed per night. Each campsite is located near a stream; bring some means to purify water.

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