Kauai and the Na Pali coast are believed to be the first place where Polynesians landed on the Hawaiian Islands over 1,000 years ago. What attracted them to this place is obvious to the casual observer; it is a perfect tropical paradise. In this paradise they found rich soil and a plentiful source of water with which they could grow taro, one of their staple foods. The Na Pali coast trail ends in Kalalua Valley where over 2,000 Polynesians once lived in an area about the size of the Golden Gate National Park in San Francisco. An amazing demonstration of how agrarian communities can survive within relatively small tracts of land. To accomplish this feat they built terraces throughout the valley, this being the most efficient use of the land. Remnants of these terraces still exist and are a tribute to these people’s creativeness and tenacity.

We arrived at Kalalau Beach early in the afternoon on New Year’s Day. The students were happy sitting on the beach but I decided explore the valley. In Kalalua Valley there are many trails, some historic and some having been made recently by the thirty or more residents who now preside there. Locals affectionately call them hippies as many of them look like they came straight out of a grateful dead concert in the 60’s. Perhaps they also deserve the title since they are happy with their “simple” lives without any of the modern conveniences of the city. Those I spoke to had few concerns outside of their own sustenance and seemed perfectly content with what they could carry on their backs.

Within a mile I came across the ancient terraces of the Polynesians and stood in awe considering the amount of man power that would have been necessary to build them. The walls were made of rocks each of which weighed hundreds of pounds. To build just ten feet of the enclosure would have required days of heavy labor. In Kalalau Valley it has been estimated that there are five miles of these terrace walls! As I stood there, I imagined the farmers tending their taro and all of the hungry villagers they hoped to feed. Back then there were no supermarkets to run too if things went wrong, they would have just gone hungry. Every where I looked there were fruit trees for which the Polynesians would supplement their taro and fish diets. Mango, oranges, passion fruit and guava are common throughout the valley and as I walked I picked enough to feed our entire group of ten. Late in the afternoon the wind began to blow and branches began to rustle overhead. On numerous occasions I turned at the sound of a breaking twig in hopes of seeing a dark skinned Polynesian. But no one ever appeared; the native Hawaiians chose the supermarket over this tropical paradise long ago.

Most tourists who go to Kalalau Valley aren’t interested in looking at the Polynesian artifacts but they are headed toward Kalalau Beach, a one mile long white sand beach, the type you see only on postcards. The beach is bordered on both sides by large “Palis”, or cliffs, and at the south end there is picturesque 50 foot waterfall perfect for bathing. This is where the trail ends since the cliffs prevent any further progress along the coast; the only way to proceed south from Kalalua is by boat. There are probably a dozen campsites above the beach and some composting toilets. We were by far the biggest group at the beach but there were another dozen people spread out and camping in the area. Many of the campers I spoke to had been at Kalalua Beach for weeks and shuddered when I told them that our group had to turn around the next day. They couldn’t imagine a better place to just sit and enjoy Kauai and nor could I.

Without a doubt, the Na Pali trail deserves a world-class rating. The scenery is breathtaking, there is plenty of fresh water, tropical fruits and at the end of the trail is an amazing beach complete with waterfall. Few people venture beyond the first two miles of the trail as it quickly becomes more difficult. Thus, an effective form of natural crowd control is in place and the feeling of being in a Hawaiian wilderness is preserved.

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